Amigurumi Acorn

Amigurumi Acorn

© June Gilbank 2007

Make your own amigurumi acorn complete with removable cup! Standing at just over 2 inches tall, these litle acorns are quick and easy to make.

This pattern is Donationware – the pattern is available for free, but if you like it please consider sending me a donation to show your appreciation:

Send me a donation and receive the easy-to-print PDF version of the pattern as a thank you! It includes some additional info that you’ll only find in the PDF version:
- How to invisibly stitch the acorn to the cup
- An unwired (child-safe) twig pattern
- Suggestions for use, and bonus tips

Donations of any size are much appreciated. Just add the amount you wish to donate, and, once you have checked out and paid, your pattern will instantly be available to download from your PlanetJune account.

The complete pattern and instructions are available below, regardless of whether or not you choose to pay for them 

This is a free PlanetJune original crochet pattern. Feel free to use items made from this pattern however you wish, but I’d appreciate credit as the pattern designer. Please do not reproduce the pattern anywhere else; instead post a link to http://www.planetjune.com/acorn/

Not ready to make it yet? Add it to your Ravelry queue: 

Omit the eyes to make realistic acorns!

Terminology

ch	chain
invdec	invisible decrease Note: If you prefer, you may use a standard sc2tog decrease in place of each invdec.
sc	single crochet (double crochet for UK/Aus)
sl st	slip stitch
st	stitch
sc2tog	single crochet decrease (insert hook into stitch and draw up a loop, insert hook into next stitch and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook)

Notes

• Do not join at the end of each round; rounds are worked in continuous spirals.
• Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. Move the marker up each time you start a new round.

You will need…

• E US/3.5mm crochet hook
• Small amount of worsted weight yarn in 2 colours (for acorn and cup)
• Polyester fibrefill stuffing
• Yarn needle to weave in ends
• Stitch marker
• Embellishments (see below for ideas)
• Pipe cleaner to make twig (optional)

Acorn Pattern

worked from top to bottom

Make a magic ring, ch 1.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 st)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 st)
Rnd 3: sc in each st around. (12 st)
Rnd 4: (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) six times. (18 st)
Rnds 5-10: sc in each st around. (18 st)
Rnd 11: (sc in next st, invdec) six times. (12 st). Stuff acorn through hole.
Rnd 12: invdec six times. Close up remaining hole, fasten off and weave in ends.

Acorn Cup Pattern

Make a magic ring, ch 1.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 st)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 st)
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) six times. (18 st)
Rnd 4: (sc in next 5 st, 2 sc in next st) three times. (21 st)
Rnds 5-6: sc in each st around. (21 st)
Rnd 7: sc in next 9 st, sc2tog, sc in next 8 st, sc2tog. (19 st).
Join with sl st to next stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends.

The acorn should fit snugly in its cup so it won’t fall out by accident.

Customizing

Unless you want to make a realistic acorn, you’ll need to add a cute face. This can be as simple as just two eyes, or you can embroider on a nose and/or mouth as well – it’s up to you!

Suggestions for the eyes (approx 6mm diameter):

• sew on small round beads or buttons
• use animal (safety) eyes
• embroider circles to make an alert acorn
• embroider ‘u’ shapes to make a sleeping acorn
• glue on googly eyes

Optional extra: make a twig for your acorn’s cup by single crocheting around a short length of pipe cleaner and then stitching it to the bottom of the cup with the same colour yarn. (NB please don’t do this if your acorn will be a toy for a small child, as the wire is not safe for children.)

UPDATED TO ADD:
For those of you with an autumn-themed Christmas tree, you could also attach the face upside down (so the cup becomes a ‘hat’ at the top), stitch the cup to the acorn so it won’t fall off, and make a hanging loop on the base of the cup so the acorns can dangle from your tree branches!

I hope you enjoy this pattern. Please leave me a comment below if you do, and consider leaving me a donation. Thanks!

Crochet DROPS Christmas bell

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inch - clickhere. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.  Dc here means sc throught out  the pattern.

CROCHET TIP: Beg each round with 1 ch. Finish each round with 1 sl st in first st from beg of round. 

BELL: Use crochet hook size 3 mm and 1 thread Cotton Viscose + 2 threads Glitter of each colour (= 5 threads). 
In the picture rounds 10 and 12 are worked in mustard and the remaining rounds in red. 

Crochet 4 ch and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. SEE CROCHET TIP!
ROUND 1: 6 dc in ring.
ROUND 2: 2 dc in each dc = 12 dc.
ROUND 3: * 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 18 dc.
ROUND 4: * 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, 2 dc in next *, repeat from *-* = 24 dc. 
ROUND 5 to 14: 1 dc in each dc. 
ROUND 15: * 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 36 dc. 
ROUND 16: 1 dc in each dc.
ROUND 17: * 4 ch, 1 dc in first ch, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-*.
Cut and fasten thread. 

HANDLE: Crochet 1 dc at the top of the bell with 1 thread Cotton Viscose – leave approx 1 meter for making the clapper afterwards. Work 30 ch and fasten with 1 sl st at the top. Cut the thread. 

CLAPPER: Pull both thread ends through the top to the WS. Turn crochet bell inside out, fasten the short end and work 30 ch with the long end. Place jingle bell on ch-string and attach string to the top of crochet bell. Turn to RS again.

Homestuck Horns

This is my self-made pattern for a pair of troll horns. The pattern is for the horns seen on Nepeta Leijon from Homestuck. Though you can change the colors to make them any kind of horns you want. :)



I used a size F/5(3.75 mm) crochet hook for this project, but if you don't have that one, you can use another size. I also used Red Heart Super Saver yarn, though you can of course use whatever yarn you like best. :) You'll need yellow, bright orange and dark orange. (My dark orange is not Red Heart Super Saver, but I can't recall what brand it is.)

The finished project is approximately 2 inches tall. 

If anything about my pattern doesn't make sense, feel free to comment and tell me and I'll see if I can explain better. Goodluck, and feel free to share the finished result when you're done!

NOTE: Somebody else has already made a pattern for Nepeta's hat, if you're looking to make that too. It can be found HERE. I made one, myself, and it looks great. :3 And is very comfy!

SC=Single Crochet
INC=Increase
DEC=Decrease
HDC=Half-Double Crochet



With yellow:
Chain 1
HDC 6 in center of chain
INC, HDC, INC, HDC, INC, HDC = 9 stitches
9 HDC around
INC, HDC, HDC (x 3) =12 
INC, HDC (x8) =24
HDC 24 around
Finish Off
Sew in tails


With Bright Orange:
HDC 24 around
HDC 24 around
HDC 24 around
Finish Off
Sew in tail


With Dark Orange:
HDC 26 around
HDC 26 around
Dec, HDC 22, Dec =24
Dec, SC (x 8) =16
16 SC
Dec, SC (x 4) =8
Stuff
Dec around, Finish off

Angel Lapel Pin

Angel Lapel Pin Designer: Rhoda Stelling © CP-0083 Materials: Size 10 crochet cotton thread Size 5 steel hook cotton to stuff head 1 small safety pin 6" of 1/8" ribbon for waist if desired needle and thread Special Stitches: Decrease - yo, pull up a lp in each of 2 next hdc, YO and draw through all loops, dec made) Directions: Head: Row 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (use marker to show row beginning) work around not joining in rows Row 2: 2 hdc in each sc around (12) Row 3: hdc in each hdc around Row 4: hdc in each hdc around Row 5: hdc in each hdc around Row 6: hdc in each hdc around dec in every third stitch slip stitch to beginning of row, do not finish off Stuff head with cotton. Wings: work in rows around sl stitch at end of each row Row 1: ch 1, sc in same st, 2 sc in each hdc across, sl st to beg. of row (18) Row 2: ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each sc around, sl to beginning (36) Row 3: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next three dc (these 4 sc are the front of the waist....now we're starting the wing...ch 2, skip 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc, ch 2 and skip 2 dc, 5 dc in next dc, ch 2 (this is the top of the wing) skip 2 dc, 5 dc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc, sc in next dc. NOW FOLD INTO WING POSITION, sl st into 4th sc of row and continue with 1 sc in each of the next 4 dc (forming back side of waist), ch 2, skip 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc, 5 dc in next dc, ch 2 (this is the top of the wing) skip 2 dc, 5 dc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc, ch 2 and skip 2 dc, now fold into wing position and sl stitch to sc form waist. Do not finish off. For Skirt: working around sc only Row 1: Ch 5, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in next sc, ch 2, dec in next sc, repeat pattern around waist. sl st to beginning chain 3 of chain 5. Row 2: Sl st into ch 2 space, ch 3 (this counts as first dc), 2 dc in same sp, ch 1, 3 dc in ch 2 space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch 2 space, ch 1, continue pattern around, sl st to ch 3 of beginning ch 3. Row 3: Ch 1, sc across, sl st to beginning of row. Row 4: Ch 1, skip 1 sc, 5 dc in next sc, skip 1 sc, sc in next sc, skip 1 sc, 5 dc in next sc, skip 1 sc, sc in next sc, repeat pattern around. Finish off. Halo: ch 10, sl st to join ring. ch 1 *sc, ch 1, hdc, ch 1* repeat * to * to fill halo. Finish off. Attach to head using needle and thread. Attach safety pin to back of angel using needle and thread. Weave 1/8" ribbon around waist and tie in bow.

Angel Lapel Pin

Angel Lapel Pin Designer: Rhoda Stelling © CP-0083 Materials: Size 10 crochet cotton thread Size 5 steel hook cotton to stuff head 1 small safety pin 6" of 1/8" ribbon for waist if desired needle and thread Special Stitches: Decrease - yo, pull up a lp in each of 2 next hdc, YO and draw through all loops, dec made) Directions: Head: Row 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (use marker to show row beginning) work around not joining in rows Row 2: 2 hdc in each sc around (12) Row 3: hdc in each hdc around Row 4: hdc in each hdc around Row 5: hdc in each hdc around Row 6: hdc in each hdc around dec in every third stitch slip stitch to beginning of row, do not finish off Stuff head with cotton. Wings: work in rows around sl stitch at end of each row Row 1: ch 1, sc in same st, 2 sc in each hdc across, sl st to beg. of row (18) Row 2: ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each sc around, sl to beginning (36) Row 3: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next three dc (these 4 sc are the front of the waist....now we're starting the wing...ch 2, skip 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc, ch 2 and skip 2 dc, 5 dc in next dc, ch 2 (this is the top of the wing) skip 2 dc, 5 dc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc, sc in next dc. NOW FOLD INTO WING POSITION, sl st into 4th sc of row and continue with 1 sc in each of the next 4 dc (forming back side of waist), ch 2, skip 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc, 5 dc in next dc, ch 2 (this is the top of the wing) skip 2 dc, 5 dc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc, ch 2 and skip 2 dc, now fold into wing position and sl stitch to sc form waist. Do not finish off. For Skirt: working around sc only Row 1: Ch 5, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in next sc, ch 2, dec in next sc, repeat pattern around waist. sl st to beginning chain 3 of chain 5. Row 2: Sl st into ch 2 space, ch 3 (this counts as first dc), 2 dc in same sp, ch 1, 3 dc in ch 2 space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch 2 space, ch 1, continue pattern around, sl st to ch 3 of beginning ch 3. Row 3: Ch 1, sc across, sl st to beginning of row. Row 4: Ch 1, skip 1 sc, 5 dc in next sc, skip 1 sc, sc in next sc, skip 1 sc, 5 dc in next sc, skip 1 sc, sc in next sc, repeat pattern around. Finish off. Halo: ch 10, sl st to join ring. ch 1 *sc, ch 1, hdc, ch 1* repeat * to * to fill halo. Finish off. Attach to head using needle and thread. Attach safety pin to back of angel using needle and thread. Weave 1/8" ribbon around waist and tie in bow.

8 Points Round Ripple Blanket

8 Points Round Ripple Blanket

Hi :D it's been a while since i posted on here even though i havent been (really) slacking on projects...
Here is my pattern for a round ripple blanket. i'm surprised at how it turned out cuz it started out not even looking like the picture. i'll put progress pics further on in the post so you can see what i mean.
Anyway, i used Caron Simply Soft yarn and an aluminum size J hook. The directions are a bit funky since i couldn't get the written pattern to flow the way my hook did, hopefully it's not too bad.

Instructions:

ch4, join with sl st to form ring.

Round 1)
ch4 to count as 1st dc+ch1. (cd, ch1) in ring 7 times so that you have 8 sections.

Round 2)
ch1, sc in same sp as joining *(2dc, ch3, 2dc) in next ch1 sp, sc in next dc.
repeat from * around. you will have 8 petals. join with sl st to 1st sc.

Round 3)
ch1, sc in same st as joining. dc in next 2 dc's, *(2dc, ch3, 2dc) in next ch3 sp.
dc in each of next 2 dc's, sc in next sc, dc in each of next 2 dc's*
repeat from * to * around, join with sl st to top of 1st sc.

Round 4)
sl st in 1st 2 sts.
ch2 to count as 1st hdc.
*sk i st, dc in next. (3dc, ch3, 3dc) in next ch3 sp.
sk 1 dc, dc in next stitch. sk 1 dc, hdc in next stitch.
sc2tog over next 3 stitches (you will skip the sc stitch in the middle). hdc in next dc.
repeat from * around, ending with last sc2tog over 3 stitches.
join with sl st to top of 1st hdc.


It should look like this about now kinda:


Round 5)
sl st in next stitch
ch 4 to count as 1st dc+ch1, dc in same st.
*sk 1 st, hdc in next, ch1.
3sc in next ch3 sp, ch1. sk 1 st, hdc in next, sk 1 st.
(dc, ch1. dc) in next stitch. sk 3 sts, (dc, ch1, dc) in next.
repeat from * around, ending with (dc, ch1, dc), sk last 3 stitches.
join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch4.

Round 6)
ch4 to count as 1st dc+ch1. hdc in next ch1 sp.
*sc in next st and in next ch1 sp, sk next hdc, sc in next
sc in center sc of next 3sc corner. sc in next ch1 sp, sk next hdc
sc in next ch1 sp and in next dc, hdc in next ch1 sp.
dc in next dc, ch3, dc in next dc. hdc in next ch1 sp.
repeat from * around, ending with ch3
join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch4.


Then it sort of changes... after a while it poofs on the inside and you can define the points with light shaping



Round 7)
ch3 to count as 1st dc.
dc in next ch1 sp and in next sc.
sk 1 st, dc3tog over next 3 sts.
*sk 1 st, dc in each of next 3 sts, (3dc, ch3, 3dc) in next ch3 sp
dc in each of next 3 sts, sk 1 st, dc3tog over next 3 sts.
repeat from * around, ending with (3dc, ch3, 3dc) in last ch3 sp.
join with sl st to top of beg ch3.

Repeat Round 7 respectively, continue to desired size.


this is my original pattern, please do not sell, copy, or distribute. please link back to my blog if you would like to share my pattern, it is free for your personal use. you may sell your finished products (not in mass quantity) but do not copy (or print) to sell this pattern.

Breast Cancer False Breast

For the knitted version of this pattern, please visit: http://theknittingexperience.com/knitted_knockers_program/

Also, a great group to get involved with: http://www.knittytittycommittee.com/

With a G Hook and Worsted weight yarn:

Note: At the end of each round, join with a sl st to first sc and ch 1.

1. Sc 6 in magic loop.
2. sc around
3. In flo, 2 sc in ea around
4. (sc, 2 sc) around
5. (sc 2, 2 sc) around
6. (sc 3, 2 sc) around
7. sc around
8. (sc 4, 2 sc) around
9. (sc 5, 2 sc) around
10. (sc 6, 2 sc) around
11. (sc 7, 2 sc) around
12-14. sc around
15. In BLO, (sc 7, dec) around
16. (sc 6, dec) around
17. (sc 5, dec) around
18. (sc 4, dec) around
19. (sc 3, dec) around
20. (sc 2, dec) around
21. (sc, dec) around. Stuff.
22. dec around. Fasten off, leaving long tail.

Sew long tail through remaining loops. With same long tail, sew through both pieces loosely so that the back is slightly concave.

Makes approximately a A cup. Add increase rows and rows between 12 and 14 to make larger cup sizes.

Feel free to add whatever decorations you like. I pierced mine. 

Skull Shape Free Pattern Halloween Decoration

Skull Shape Free Pattern
Halloween Decoration

An Original Design by Sandi Marshall

A crocheted Halloween decoration with a skull shaped center. The skull shape is attached to a granny square style background.

More of this Feature • Printer-Friendly Page     Related Resources • More Halloween Patterns • How To Weave In Ends • More How To Pages • Free Patterns A-Z Links

Materials Used In The Example: 
Worsted weight yarn, in the following colors: 
Color A: White for skull 
Color B: Black for granny square behind skull shape 
Color C: Small amount of Orange, Purple or another contrasting color for the chain used for hanging the decoration 
Hook: US Size G crochet hook

Finished Size, when made with materials above:
Skull is 4 inches tall x 3 1/2 inches wide, at widest point
Background is 5 inches square, measured from side to side (or 6 1/2 inches wide when measured from corner to corner)

Gauge is not important for this project. The decoration is useful in any finished size.

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
ea = each
rnd = round
sc = single crochet
sp = space
sl st = slip stitch

Starting Chain For Skull: Chain 3, join with a slip stitch to form a ring.
Rnd 1: ch 1, 8 sc in ring, sl st in first sc, to join.
Rnd 2 (loops): * ch 4, skip next sc, sl st in back loop of next sc **, repeat the directions between * and ** 3 more times. These loops will be used later to attach the background square to the skull shape.
Note: Keep the round 2 loops behind the round 3 stitches. You may want to fold the round 2 loops back and be careful not to accidentally crochet into the round 2 loops while doing round 3.
Rnd 3: Work in the front loops only for this entire round. ch 1, 2 sc in ea of first 3 sc, ch 5 (for eye hole), skip next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, ch 5 (for nose), 2 sc in next sc, ch 5 (for other eye), skip next 2 sc, sl st in first sc of this round, to join.
Rnd 4: ch 1, sc in same sc as sl st just made, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) twice, 2 sc in next sc, 6 sc in ch-5 loop (eye), sc in ea of next 2 sc, 7 sc in next ch-5 loop (nose), sc in ea of next 2 sc, 6 sc in next ch-5 loop (other eye), sl st in first sc of this round, to join.
Rnd 5: ch 1, sc in same sc as sl st just made, sc in next sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in ea of next 2 sc) 4 times, dc in next sc, ch 2, sc in next sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, ch 3, skip 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, sc in next sc, ch 2, dc in next sc, sc in ea of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in ea of next 2 sc, sl st in first sc of this round, to join.
Rnd 6: ch 1, sc in same sc as sl st just made, sc in ea of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in ea of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in ea of next 4 sc, sl st in ea of next 5 sc, sc in next ch-1 sp, sl st in next sc, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in ea of next 2 sc, 4 sc in ch-3 sp, sc in ea of next 2 sc, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, sl st in next sc, sc in ch-1 sp, sl st in ea of next 5 sc, sc in ea of next 2 sc, sl st in first sc of this round, to join.
Rnd 7: sl st in ea of next 16 sc, sl st in ea of next 5 sl st, sl st in ea of next 3 sc, (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) 4 times, sc in ea of next 2 sc, sl st in ea of next 4 sc, sl st in ea of next 7 sl st.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Background Square Behind Skull:
Attach Color B (black yarn in the example) in any ch-4 loop on Rnd 2 of the skull shape. Have the right side of the skull facing you as you crochet the background square (so that the right side of the background square will face the same way as the right side of the skull shape).
Rnd 1: ch 3 (counts as first dc), (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in same ch-4 loop, * ch 2, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-4 loop **, repeat the directions between * and ** twice more, ch 2, sl st in first dc, to join.
Rnd 2 Note - Securing Skull In Place: (Optional) When you are crocheting any stitches of round 2 that would line up close to the skull edge, after wrapping the yarn over the hook in preparation to do that double crochet, insert the hook through a part of a stitch on the back of the skull (in such a way that the background color will not show through to the front of the skull). After drawing the background color yarn through the skull stitch, proceed with that double crochet for the background square. If you do this several times near the top of the skull head, it will help secure the skull head in place. If you don't wish to use this method to secure the skull, you can sew several stitches in the skull head later to secure the skull to the background. 
Rnd 2: sl st in ea of next 2 dc, sl st in next ch-3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first dc), (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in same ch-3 sp, * ch 2, skip next 3 dc, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, skip next 3 dc, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp **, repeat the directions between * and ** twice more, ch 2, skip next 3 dc, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, skip next 3 dc, sl st in first dc, to join.
Rnd 3: sl st in ea of next 2 dc, sl st in next ch-3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first dc), (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in same ch-3 sp, * ch 1, skip next 3 dc, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, skip next 3 dc, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, skip next 3 dc, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp **, repeat the directions between * and ** twice more, ch 1, skip next 3 dc, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, skip next 3 dc, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, skip next 3 dc, sl st in first dc, to join.
Rnd 4: ch 1, sc in same dc as sl st just made, sc in ea of next 2 dc, (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in next ch-3 corner sp, (sc in ea of next 3 dc, sc in ch-1 sp) 3 times, * sc in ea of next 3 dc, (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in next ch-3 corner sp, (sc in ea of next 3 dc, sc in ch-1 sp) 3 times, **, repeat directions between * and ** 2 more times, then sl st in first sc, to join. End off. Weave in ends.

Halloween Amigurumi Cat

Halloween Amigurumi Cat

This spooky little cat makes a cute holiday decoration, or even a toy for a little one.
This cat works out to be 4 inches tall (almost 4.5 with ears) in worsted weight yarn and size F hook.

Cat is worked in rounds. Make ears first!

EARS (make 2)
Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hk, hdc in 3rd ch from hk. Fasten off. Stitch to head before filling.

CAT
Row 1:  Row 1:  ch 4, sl st to form loop  (6)
Row 2:  2 sc in each st   (12)
Row 3:  sc in each st around  (12)
Row 4:  1 sc, 2 sc in next st, repeat around  (18)
Row 5:  sc in each st around (18)
Row 6:  sc2tog, sc in next st, repeat around (12)
Row 7:  sc2tog, sc in next st, repeat around (8)
Stitch in eyes (and other features as desired), stuff the head
Row 8:  sc2tog 3 more times (5)
Row 9:  2 sc in each st (10)
Row 10:  1 sc, 2sc in next st, repeat around (15)
Row 11:  sc in each st around (15)
Row 12:  2 sc, sc in next 2 sts, repeat around (18)
Row 13:  sc in each st around (18)
Row 14:  2 sc, sc in next 5 sts, repeat around (21)
Row 15:  sc in each st around (21)
Row 16:  2 sc, sc in next 6 sts, repeat around (24)
Row 17:  sc in each st around, BACKLOOP (24)
Row 18:  dc3tog around. fill body before doing last one.
Fasten off, use yarn to stitch remaining hole, and bring out the back and ch 12 to make tail.

Halloween Ghost Free Amigurumi Pattern by Susan Burkhart

You have permission to sell items you create with this pattern, provided the item is made entirely by you, and you give me credit as the designer. You do not have permission to modify this pattern, sell it, or publish it in any format.
Supplies:
size F crochet hook
small amount white worsted weight yarn
scrap amount black DMC perle cotton size 5 for features
polyester fiberfill stuffing
3” square or circle plastic canvas
yarn needle
Abbreviations
Rnd: round
ch: chain
st: stitch
sc: single crochet
sl st: slip stitch
sc dec: single crochet decrease (sometimes denoted as sc2tog). Insert hook in next sc. Bring up a loop. Insert hook in next sc. Bring up another loop. Yarn over hook and bring through all loops on hook. Alternately, substitute an invisible decrease (invdec) if desired.
Numbers enclosed in parentheses indicate the number of stitches at the end of the round or row.
Directions enclosed in * * indicate instructions which are to be worked the specified number of times.
Note: This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral. Please mark the end of each round with a paper clip or contrasting colored thread. Do not join each round with a slip stitch.

Head and Body -starting at Head:
using white yarn
Rnd 1: ch 2, work 6 sc in second ch from hook (6 sc)
Alternately, substitute a magic ring with 6 sc.
Rnd 2: starting in the 1st sc of Rnd 1, *2 sc in next st* 6 times (12 sc)
Rnd 3: sc in each st around (12 sc)
Rnd 4: *2 sc in next st, sc in next st* 6 times (18 sc)
Rnd 5: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st* 6 times (24 sc)
Rnd 6 - 9: sc in each st around (24 sc)
Rnd 10: *sc dec, sc in next 2 st* 6 times (18 sc)
Rnd 11: sc in each st around (18 sc)
Rnd 12: *sc in next st, sc dec* 6 times (12 sc)
Rnd 13: *2 sc in next st, sc in next st* 6 times (18 sc)
Rnd 14: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st* 6 times (24 sc)
Rnd 15: *2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 st* 3 times (27 sc)
Rnd 16: sc in each st around (27 sc)
Rnd 17: sc in next 4 st, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 st* 2 times, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st (30 sc)
Rnd 18-19: sc in each st around (30 sc)
Rnd 20: sc in next 7 st, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 9 st* 2 times, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st (33 sc

Rnd 21-22: sc in each st around (33 sc)
Rnd 23: *2 sc in next st, sc in next 10 st* 3 times (36 sc)
Rnd 24-25: sc in each st around (36 sc)
Rnd 26: sc in next 5 st, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 11 st* 2 times, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 st (39 sc)
Rnd 27-28: sc in each st around (39 sc)
Fasten off.
Base:
using white yarn
Rnd 1: ch 2, work 6 sc in second ch from hook (6 sc)
Alternately, substitute a magic ring with 6 sc.
Rnd 2: starting in the 1st sc of Rnd 1, *2 sc in next st* 6 times (12 sc)
Rnd 3: *2 sc in next st, sc in next st* 6 times (18 sc)
Rnd 4: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st* 6 times (24 sc)
Rnd 5: *2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* 6 times (30 sc)
Rnd 6: sc in next 3 st, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st* 5 times, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st (36 sc)
Rnd 7: *2 sc in next st, sc in next 11 st* 3 times (39 sc)
Fasten off leaving enough yarn to sew base onto body. Cut a circle out of the plastic canvas slightly smaller than the base. Stuff head and body. Place plastic canvas circle on wrong side of base. Sew base onto body with plastic canvas and wrong side on the inside of ghost.
Arms (make 2):
using white yarn
Rnd 1: ch 2, work 4 sc in second ch from hook (4 sc)
Alternately, substitute a magic ring with 4 sc.
Rnd 2: sc in each st around (4 sc)
Rnd 3: *2 sc in next st, sc in next st* 2 times (6 sc)
Rnd 4: sc in each st around (6 sc)
Rnd 5: 2 sc in each of next 2 st, sc in next 4 st (8 sc)
Rnd 6: sc in next st, 2 sc in each of next 2 st, sc in next st, 2 sc dec (8 sc)
Rnd 7: sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st, sc dec (8 sc)
Rnd 8: sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st (9 sc)
Rnd 9: sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st (10 sc)
Rnd 10: 2 sc in each of next 2 st, sc in next 2 st, 2 sc dec, sc in next 2 st (10 sc)
Rnd 11: sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st, sc dec, sc in next 3 st (10 sc)
Fasten off leaving enough yarn to sew arm onto body. Stuff arms. Refer to photo to place and shape arms.
Embroider features as desired.

Caged Flower by JLyn Spencer

Materials: Worsted weight yarn, H hook.
Stitches Used: Double Crochet (DC), Half Double
Crochet (HDC).
Pattern Notes: Pattern Uses American Terms
In round 6, depending on how tight you crochet,
you may want to make sure to draw up a longer
loop in the DC stitches. Or switch to a TR instead of
DC if the stitch isn’t tall enough for your taste.
Begin Pattern
With Color A, chain 4, join to form a loop.
Round 1: CH2 (counts as 1st HDC), 7HDC in loop.
Join with slip stitch to top of first chain 2.
Round 2: CH3, * slip stitch in next HDC, CH3.
Repeat from * around. Join with Slip Stitch to
bottom of beginning CH3. (8 CH3 spaces).
Round 3: Slip stitch into first CH3 space. * CH4,
Slip stitch into next CH3 space. Repeat from *
around. Join with Slip stitch to first Slip Stitch. Fasten
off. (8 CH4 spaces)
Round 4: Join color B in any CH4 space. Ch3
(counts as 1st DC), (2DC, CH2, 3DC) in same space
(corner made). *3DC in next CH4 space. (3DC, CH2,
3DC) in next CH4 space. Repeat from * around. Join
with slip stitch to top of beginning CH3. Fasten off.
Round 5: Join color C in any CH2 corner space,
CH3 (counts as 1st DC), (1DC, CH3, 2DC) in same
corner space, *CH1. (skip next DC, 1DC in next DC,
CH1) 4 times. (2DC, CH3, 2DC) in corner. Repeat
from * 2 more times. (skip next DC, 1DC in next
DC, CH1) 4 times. Join with slip stitch in top of
beginning CH3. Fasten off. (5 CH1 spaces per side)
Round 6: Join color B in any CH3 corner space,
CH2 (counts as 1st HDC), (HDC, CH2, 2HDC) in
same space. *Skip next DC. (HDC in next DC, DC
in skipped DC from round 5) 5 times, HDC in next
DC, Skip next DC, (2HDC, CH2, 2HDC) in corner.
Repeat from * 3 times. Skip next DC. (HDC in next
DC, DC in skipped DC from round 5) 5 times, HDC
in next DC. Skip next DC. Join with Slip stitch to top
of beginning CH2. Fasten off. (5 DC per side)
Round 7: Join color C in any CH2 corner space,
CH3 (counts as 1st DC), (DC, CH3, 2DC) in same
space. Work 1DC BETWEEN each stitch from round
6, and (2DC, CH3, 2DC) in each corner. Join with
slip stitch to top of beginning CH3. Fasten off.
Weave in ends.
Caged Flower
PAGE 1
Caged Flower, a pattern by J. All rights reserved.
You can use items made from this pattern in any project you like, just

Black Eyed Granny by Marta Chrzanowska

Hook 5.5
Worsted weight acrylic or cotton in black, orange and cream.

Round 1

With black, in adjustable ring: ch1 (doesn't count as hdc), 8 hdc, join in ring with sl st on top of first hdc, fasten off black [8hdc]

Round 2

Join orange in any hdc, ch4 (counts as tr), 2 tr in same st, 3tr in each hdc around, join with sl st on top of beg ch, fasten off orange [8 - 3tr groups]

Round 3

Join cream in any chainless sp between petals, ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same sp
*ch1, 3dc in next sp between petals, ch3 for corner, 3dc in next sp between petals* 3 times, ch1, 3dc in next sp between petals, ch 1, dc on top of beg ch [ 8 - 3dc groups, 4 ch1 sps, 3 ch3 corner sps, 1(ch1, dc) corner sp]

Round 4

ch3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same sp, *ch1, 3dc in next sp, ch1, 3dc in next sp, ch 3 for corner, 3dc in same sp* 3 times, ch1, 3dc in next sp, ch1, 3dc in next sp, ch1, dc on top of beg ch [12 - 3dc groups, 8 ch1 sps, 3 ch3 corner sps, 1 (ch1, dc) corner sp

Round 5 and up
Continue in a similar way, always making 3dc in each ch1 sp and (3dc , ch3, 3dc) for corners. Join rows by making (sc, dc on top of beg ch)

Last Round
 At the end of your last Round do not join by working (ch1, dc on top of beg ch), instead work: ch3, join by sl st on top of beg ch. Like here:

SNOW STAR

SNOW STAR:
Ch 6 with crochet hook size 2.5 mm/C/US 2 and 1 thread Cotton Viscose and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.

ROUND 1: ch 1, 12 sc in ring, finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round. 

ROUND 2: ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, * 6 ch, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc (= 1 star loop),* repeat from *-* a total of 5 times and finish with 6 ch and 1 sl st in sc from beg of round (= 6 star loops).

ROUND 3: ch 1, round star loops crochet as follows: * 2 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in 3rd ch from hook and 2 sc *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times. 
Round the last star loop crochet as follows: 2 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 sc, 20 ch, 1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in 3rd ch from hook and 2 sc, finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round. 
Cut and fasten thread. 

Picot_Angel (1).pdf (126K)

Picot_Angel (1).pdf

(126K)

Candy Cane Christmas Potholder

Crochet Hook:

H / 8 / 5.0 mm crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge.

For Weaving in Ends: Tapestry needle

Abbreviations

• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• sl st = slip stitch
• st(s) = stitch(es)

Finished Size:

Each potholder measures approximately 7 inches square, not including the hanging loop. The hanging loop measures about 1.5 inches.

Gauge:

7.5 stitches and 7.5 rows = 2 inches.

Gauge isn't too critical for success with this project; you'll be able to use your potholder even if it turns out a few inches larger or smaller than my sample potholder. However, it is still a good idea to check your gauge; if your gauge is drastically different, you'll want to switch crochet hooks.

Design Notes:

One square on the chart = 1 sc st.

When working the charted design, you'll have one active color and one inactive color. Crochet overtop of your inactive color; hold it horizontally, so that it is parallel to the last row you worked. When you form your next stitch, the inactive color will be hiding inside of the stitch. If you aren't already familiar with this technique, known as "tapestry crochet," you may wish to visit my tapestry crochet tutorial for more details. If you've never tried tapestry crochet before, I recommend starting off with an easier pattern before you work this potholder; this checkerboard is a good choice.

Color Changes:

See this tutorial for how to change colors in single crochet stitch.

Potholder Instructions:

Using color B, ch 26. sc in 2nd ch from hook.

Begin working the red and white diagonal stripes chart.

Starting with row 2, work through both loops of the stitches in the previous row.

When you've completed the chart, do not end off.

Potholder Edging:

Outside Round: Working in color B, ch 12 to form the hanging loop. Secure the hanging loop to the corner of the potholder with a sl st. Then crochet evenly spaced sl sts all the way around the potholder.

Cut the yarn, leaving a tail of yarn at least 6 inches long for weaving in. Then, remove your hook, and insert it from back to front through the next sl st. Grab the active loop and pull it through the stitch so that it will be on the back of the work. Then end off.

Weave in the ends carefully using a tapestry needle. Your work will be visible on the back of the potholder, so be as neat as you can.